East of Ilulissat




Before

Here turns the marked trail (the blue one) away from the icefjord and back to Ilulissat, an easy dayhike, but we climb up to higher ground and into the wilderness.

After

The same bight a week later and in better weather. Note the differences in the ice cover. The bigger bergs are usually aground and do not move much, whereas the smaller debris drifts up and down the icefjord driven by tide and wind.
Bight Bight


From the high ground

On the left a view across the fjord. The view on the right image reaches out to where the fjord joins the open water of the Disco bight.

View at icefjord View to the sea


Turning point

This was as far as we got, just about 20 km east of Ilulissat as the crow flies. I had hoped for more, but the terrain wasn't easy.

From lake


Sunny

Two closer looks from the scene above and sponsored by the sun, for a change.

At the lake At the lake


Stones

Again and again I see big stones in positions as if put down by some higher power.

Stone Stone


Cotton grass


Cotton grass Cotton grass


Mushroom

There were plenty of them, but we rather ate our own food to lessen the weight of our packs. Sure, if we had planned for local mushrooms, we wouldn't have found any.

Plant

Being no expert, I'm still looking for its name.
Mushroom Plant


Panorama

The small fjord in the foreground carries the name Sikuiuitsoq; the big icefjord is behind, both seen from a position of about 400 m above sea level. The iceshield forms the horizon.

Icefjord


Climate

Our fourth tour in Greenland was by far the coldest. I had come to believe that Greenland's weather isn't as tough as people believe, but this time the climate change didn't work out, or so it seems.

Tent Tent in snow


Ravine

We were forced to go down and up the slopes of this gorge twice, which wasn't easy without snow. On the left image wires are visible, a high-voltage line from a recently built hydro-power plant for the energy supply of Ilulissat.

Canon Canon in snow


Fine weather...

...was rare on this trip. Most of the time it was cloudy and wet, and cold. The best day, from the sheer look of it (right side), was actually spoiled by a strong cold wind, cutting through bones.

Landscape Tent


Ice

After the sun came out, I made these photographs of the icefjord. The bizarre berg was crumbling away during all that time, and on the next morning the beautiful arc was no more.

Icefjord Iceberg


More ice

The entire fjord is covered by floating ice, powered by one of the most active glacier tongues of the world.

Iceshield

Lit by the sun, the inland iceshield and the calving edge are visible here. The smaller Sikuiuitsoq fjord in front rents all its ice from the big icefjord, since the glacier at its end is not active.
Ice Icefjord and iceshield


Sunny

A beautiful calm evening, finally.

Icefjord


Again stones

On the left a flat place that develops into a deep ravine called Uujuup Kuua. The stone on the right enjoys the beautiful evening light on a bitterly cold day.

Stone and valley Stone and lake


Icefjord

The evening colors emphasize the huge iceshield.

Icefjord in the evening


Disco bight

The ice barrier at the mouth of the fjord, where the big icebergs run aground and block the exit. The fjord was carved out by ice to a depth of 1000 m, but only as far as the ice went. Then the bottom rises again.

Disco bight Disco bight
Ice Ice barrier


Waterfalls

Despite an abundance of water and rocks we met just a few waterfalls.

Waterfall Waterfall


Size

When icebergs reach above hills, the real size of these monsters becomes clearer. Their bigger part is below the surface.

Shower

A lake in a rain shower. There were plenty of both.
Imilik bight Lake in rain


Iceberg

A layer of dirt cuts through this iceberg.

Icebergs in Imilik bight Iceberg


Imilik bight

A small bight in the fjord not far from Ilulissat.

Shades of white

The ice comes in white, blue, gray, with layers, it forms structures, it moves, melts, cracks, and it changes all the time.
Imilik bight Icebergs


Barrier

The ice barrier in the evening, a huge wall of stranded bergs.

Bizarre

Ice in Imilik bight.
Ice barrier Ice barrier


Open waters

Imilik bight again. On the right side are the broad paths left by tourists from nearby Ilulissat. This year, however, there was almost nobody to be seen. A virus had swept the area clean.

End of Icefjord


The last day

From a final camp near the fjord, half a day from Ilulissat, I take the chance for some more images.

Ice barrier Start of blue path


Panorama

A panoramic view of the same place as shown on top of this page. Still a couple of hours to go to Ilulissat.

Start of blue path


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