My first trip to Iceland in 2007 started with a classic hike from Skógar to Landmannalaugar for sake of the interesting volcanic attractions along the route, the Laugarvegur. At the end we spent some more time to visit the most popular places, the geysers and Gullfoss, a must-see in Iceland, but also frequented by busloads of tourists. We already had received a first taste of touristic masses at the large campsite in Landmannalaugar.
This time we went for a tougher tour across the remote peninsula of Hornstrandir. From a dirtroad near the mouth of the Selá river we circled anticlockwise around the Drangajökull to arrive at Hesteyri after two weeks. At first we didn't meet anybody while crossing over to the eastern shore, but met trails and a fair amount of hikers in the northern part. Hence, it's also crowded here these days; an early approach to booking is recommended.